There are 226 entries in 23 pages and you are on page number 2 |
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Comments by
Dave Trikaminas on Thursday, June 24, 2010 at 23:24 |
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Hey Chuck,
I have a question ! ( Love the street fighter by the way ) A few years back I cut my cans of my 98' TLR like you did- ( Thanks ) I bought the baffles & installed them but the bike became sluggish - let me rephrase that - it is sluggish off the throttle. I removed the baffles and welded on each a washer. Now her back pressure is back up and she feels a bit better but Im still not happy. Im running a PC2 but no TRE - Are there any full open exhaust maps? Will just a TRE do the trick?
Chuck: if you have a full system run that full systems map -if you have stock headers run a race can map. You should add a TRE and that should really help the slowness low RPM |
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Comments by
Wallace Rowan on Wednesday, June 16, 2010 at 10:10 |
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Hi Chuck, thanks for the insights and advice. What about crank case pressure? Is this ever an issue in blowing seals--because I have a mechanic who seems to think it is, but I have a hard time believing it. I also posted this question on TLPlanet.com but didn't get much response. Thanks for any insights on this.
Chuck: Nah, never heard of it. He might be thinking that because of the earlier versions of the oil air separator would allow oil into the airbox. The clutch and coutershaft seals are a bit tricky to get right. I have done a dozen and my most recent one I have to do twice. |
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Comments by
Wallace Rowan on Monday, June 14, 2010 at 08:25 |
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Hi Chuck, great site and great advice. You've helped me in past w/my 2001 TLR. I have been plagued with clutch shaft seal and countershaft seal leaks. My mechanic did the SV1000 clutch seal, but it still leaks. Is crank case pressure a culprit? If so, any way to alleviate? Thanks, Wallace.
Chuck: Hi Wallace, the countershaft seal and clutch pushrod seal should be done together (just in case) For the pushrod seal get the 2003 SV1000 seal and retainer plate as it is more robust thant he stock TL. Make sure you install a new pushrod. For the coutershaft replace the seal and the spacer and o-ring which is behind the front sprocket. I make sure the seals are in straight and recessed all the way around, I also used plenty of axle grease upon assembly. Also make sure the clutch slave is assembled straight as putting it in crooked will move the push rod seal. |
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Comments by
james davey on Friday, June 11, 2010 at 16:32 |
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hi chuck just an update ran the bike today rode the bike today for about 30 min was fine stopped for 15 turned on and back to 1 cyclinder no idle checked dealer mode and no faults, was going to double check wiring,i belive its ignition as smelt very feuly so belive fuel system is ok any ideas would be great maNY THANKS james
Chuck: Hi James, did you do th electrical fix? It does sound like an ignition problem... How are the injectors? Is fuel pressure good? |
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Comments by
Ken on Friday, June 11, 2010 at 14:41 |
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Hey Chuck,
Great site and a huge help...I live in the panhandle and was wondering if you can point me in the right direction to someone that knows how to rebuild TLR's...
I found mine in kinda bad shape and dont have the mechanical skill to fix her up right....
Chuck: I can help, send me your email address... |
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Comments by
james davey on Monday, June 07, 2010 at 14:37 |
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hi chuck wonderd if you could help i have a tl1000r 98 i have a intermitant fault every other time you turn ignition on the bike runs on 1 cyl no power will not idle turn key off/on then a1 runs fine. i have done ur elec,mod which helped as cured a lumpy spot at 3-4 rpm i suspect coil but wounderd if you have cum across this prob top site buy the way keep up the good work cheers james
Chuck: Hi James. You should start by checking for codes while in dealer mode. Get back to me and let me know what you find :) |
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Comments by
Shane Dawe on Saturday, May 29, 2010 at 05:41 |
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hey chuck,top site,i have an imaculate 98 tlr.only got 22k on the clock,just put a full M4 system,power comander and race air filter on to it,otherwise all is stock,going to do a few of your mods,i run it on the strip,its a strugle off the line but i got the best of 11.6 mainly because my 60ft times aint so good,but when i overcome looking at the sky off the line it should improve.again top site,hope to post my next runs on youtube.thanks
Chuck: Hi Shane, 11.6 -wow nice job! Yes, definitely want to hear about your runs/ times |
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kadshane@aapt.net.au |
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Comments by
Craig on Wednesday, May 26, 2010 at 05:02 |
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hi there,
have been reading your site, tops too by the way. the instrument cluster change colour. if you click this site, they provide leds that fit in the twist connector. http://www.autolumination.com/ hope this helps others
Chuck: Hi Craig, great info, thanks! |
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Comments by
Pat on Tuesday, May 18, 2010 at 20:33 |
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Great site Chuck, picked up a 2000 TLR. Love it. was wondering what brand clutch and brake fluid you use? Owners manual says glycol based no synthetic. Haven't been able to find any.
Chuck: Hi Pat, the glyocol based is what you need (dot4). If you use synthetic (dot5)it will not absorb water and you will have to change your fluid after every race or once a month street use. Dot 4 absorbs water and can go much longer before changing. |
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Comments by
Robbert on Thursday, May 13, 2010 at 20:37 |
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he chuck,
just came from the dealer for some cluth fluid (Thanks for your manual)
as soon as took of I felt my chain slipping got home and found out my rear sprocket is kind of worn out
What rear sprocket do you recommend?
Thanks!
Chuck: Hi Robbert, make sure you change both sprockets and chain as a set. I recommend a 41 tooth rear sprocket (stock is 39) and a stock 17 tooth front for a little added extra power. |
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